We had a lot of life changes in the works this summer, and I didn't have too much time to think or plan much for our trip. Brad did most of the planning legwork (read: basically all of it), and I just trusted him to pick out fun stuff. Not being personally invested in the details, I didn't have as of high expectations as I do when I feel like everyone's enjoyment rests on my shoulders. I just had normal-level expectations. Which meant that everything had the possibility to exceed said expectations. And everything did!
We got to Edinburgh on a Tuesday morning and headed straight into town (on the top level of a double-decker bus, as one does when one is in the UK). The weather was beautiful, and Brad had found us a place to stash our bags (I think he used Stasher- a luggage storing app akin to an Air BnB for bags) so we could traipse around until our Air BnB was ready.
First sight as we got off the bus in the city center. Or rather, city centre.
Edinburgh Castle
After we stashed out bags, we really felt the drag of travel and jet lag and made off immediately in search of a coffee shop. We found Smoov (right on the Royal Mile), and it was DELIGHTFUL.
I'm no good at ordering coffee. I know nothing about it outside of caffeine. I also feel like ordering coffee requires you to speak a foreign language (venti? mocha? froth? I don't even know). I don't, however, want my coffee to taste like coffee. Thus, I have Brad order fancy frou-frou coffee for me when we go to coffee shops. He ordered this magnificence. The woman a table over got up, asked what it was, and promptly went to order one for herself.
We walked up the Royal Mile, enjoying the beautiful weather and gorgeous old buildings, and we stopped at St. Giles cathedral. Everything would have been absolutely perfect if not for the massive Fringe festival happening right in the middle of the Mile. It was super crowded and full of performers, which marred the experience somewhat. (But only somewhat...it was still really charming.)
We arrived at St. Giles about 15 minutes before the midday prayer and scripture service, so we stayed to participate in that. We were surprised that the presiding priest was American and stuck around to chat with him for a minute. Come to find out, he was a friend of a couple of Duke friends of ours and was studying/interning at the University of Edinburgh for a term. Small world, indeed.
Stopped here for lunch. Fish and chips AS ONE DOES.
Snapped this little picture from the entrance to the Clark's shoe store. Remember how I mentioned that my shoes had destroyed my feet? It got progressively worse, and I was literally hobbling. Thankfully, Brad insisted that we buy new shoes. I spent more than I would almost ever spend in the States, but it was the best purchase of our trip. I would never have made it otherwise.
Academics can't be stopped.
The building where our Air BnB was located. It was just at the end of the Royal Mile.
And there were quaint little vistas like this nearby.
The best shot I got of Holyrood Palace as we walked past (it's the Queen's residence in Edinburgh). We didn't tour it this time. But we'll be back, so it's fine.
Did you know that unicorns are the national animal of Scotland? Truth. But they're not colorful or sparkly or fluffy. They're very fearsome-looking.
Just a pretty little path.
We began our first full day in Edinburgh (Wednesday) by making a pilgrimage to The Elephant House.
This was where J. K. Rowling famously began writing the Harry Potter series. This was a must-do on my Scotland list.
I loved this little sign.
We ordered the most delicious Victoria sponge cake. We probably should have ordered two instead of splitting one...
View from the cafe dining room window. Note the owl on the window sill. #hedwig
Pictures of the genius herself.
It was really hard to get this shot, as there were so many people milling about, paying homage.
From The Elephant House, we walked down the street and around the corner to visit Greyfriars Kirk. There's a whole story about a little dog, Greyfriars Bobby, in conjunction with this church, and there's even this monument and pub in his honor.
Greyfriars
This wall around the cemetery was part of the original wall around the city.
I learned that there is still a Gaelic service that meets in this church weekly. Apparently, this service began several hundred years ago for the Gaelic-speaking workers who came down from the highlands to find work.
Greyfriars received its name because, before the Reformation, it housed Franciscan monks (the grey friars). We enjoyed visiting the little museum in the back of the church, and I REALLY wished the girls had been with us to try on all the woodland creature costumes they had for amusing children while their parents walk through the museum. Such a missed opportunity...
Spotted this sign while walking down Victoria Street (which was the inspiration for Harry Potter's Diagon Alley)
See? Don't mind the van and the people. It's a little tricky to get Instagram-worthy shots with so many people around.
Edinburgh is riddled with "closes," which are these historic alleys. They're very quaint during the day (a little sinister-looking in the dark), and many of them are associated with all manner of legends and stories. Mary King's Close is known for being haunted and the site of many a murder. Ooooohhh... (we didn't do the tour, but I thought this little cart was too cute.)
We stopped by the Scottish National Library (you know you're not surprised by this) and went through this fascinating exhibit about the Scottish Enlightenment. It was a fantastic exhibit and so so interesting. Guys, we in the States very much do not give Scotland its historical dues. I'm afraid we lump everyone into the category of "British" and then just assume they're English. Careful, friends.
Also, there was a lot of information about James Boswell. I have no idea if there's a connection between our Boswells and James, but you know. Have to make note of it.
Had lunch here
Found a bug in my salad (a rather large moth), so we didn't end up paying for the meal...
(my sandwich was excellent, by the way)
I had to. There was even a bicycle next to it.
We walked a parallel route to the Royal Mile to get back to our Air BnB (to avoid Fringe crowds + to see some different things) and got some really pretty views.
Look at that sky!
Edinburgh old town skyline
A view of Arthur's Court...a summit we climbed later in our visit.
This is the monument to Robert Burns, Scottish national poet. This view was just breathtaking. At least for me. Brad might not have been quite as impressed.
We walked around and touristed hard all morning and early afternoon before going home for just a little while before heading back into town that evening for my very favorite thing we did during our visit! Intrigued? Good!
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